Winecurrent
April 24, 2015 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Exceptional-value wine Exceptional Value! – 14 of 74 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines with the devil in the details. You’ll find more than half of these following the Vintages Release, in wines that are available under Private Order. What strict quality-price guidelines? Click here.
  • 5-star Wine – only one wine rang the 5-star bell – Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2015 @ $16.95 found under Ontario: White Wine 
  • Susan Selects – Susan Desjardin is tasting and spitting her way through the Okanagan Valley and the U.S. Pacific Northwest leaving Lisa Isabelle—returning in a guest appearance—and Vic to soldier on here.
  • Lisa Likes – Vegamar ‘Selección’ Merseguera 2015 with 4½ stars @ $14.30 and Fratelli Ponte ‘Fiore di Loto’ Moscato d’Asti 2015 with 4 stars @ $18.50 both found under New in Private Order.
  • Vic Picks – Pascual Tosa ‘Barrancas Vineyards - Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 with 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Argentina: Red Wine; Gabriel Meffre ‘Saint-Ferréol’ Tavel Rosé 2015 with 4½ stars @ $19.95 under France: Rosé Wine; Domaine Auquier Luberon 2015 with 4 stars @ $12.20 under New in Private Order.
  • Wine Tip – Rosé wines are best enjoyed chilled, as you would white wine. They are also generally meant to be consumed young, well within 12 months of harvest. 

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (not Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: April 30, 2016

Feature: Pacific Northwest

Washington State

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Chardonnay 2013
Columbia Valley $17.95 (366542) 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, sweet vanilla and tropical fruit aromas leap from the glass of this medium-bodied, rich, luscious gem. It’s very appealing, smooth and mellow with deft balance and a lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. The palate’s bathed with poached pear, caramel apple and racy lemon curd infused with oodles of spice. Pour alongside roast, stuffed chicken or pan-seared prawns or scallops. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Three Rivers ‘River’s Red’ 2012
Columbia Valley $24.95 (287433) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of red berry fruit and sharp spice precede a firmly constructed, tang-laden, stream of pomegranate and cranberry mingling with spice and earthy notes on the palate. Racy flavour replays on the finish and dry, mouth-watering aftertaste are joined by spice and wisps of herbs underpinned by perceptible tannin that’s easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration decant. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Unbroken 2012
Horse Heaven Hills $26.95 (444729) 13.9% alcohol
Exotic incense, earthy and floral aromas herald a racy, sleek line of juicy acidity delivered by tightly focused sour cherry and red currant flavour. This is medium bodied and well textured with still-evolving tannin enveloping fruit on the fairly lengthy finish. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce with meatballs after a three-hour aeration decant or pop corks 2018. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Seven Falls Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Wahluke Slope, Columbia Valley $19.95 (360222) 14.5% alcohol
A lifted nose of dark cherry/berry fruit, spice and cedar aromas unleash a medium-plus bodied, nicely textured swath of ripe, sweet red and black berry fruit garnished with mocha and roasted herbs. It’s nicely balanced with good structure and lengthy aftertaste that has brushstrokes of fine-grained tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with steak, burgers or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Stonecap Syrah 2013
Columbia Valley $16.95 (443150) 13.9% alcohol
This is chockful of value, medium-full bodied with good texture and a boatload of charm. Grilled savoury herbs, peppery spice and cigar box aromas open this crowd-friendly, creamy-smooth red. A surge of über-ripe black juicy cherry and black currant interwoven with sprigs of spice and herbs coat the palate infusing the mid-length finish. Pour with smoked and grilled back ribs mopped in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon

**** drink or cellar
A to Z Wineworks Chardonnay 2014
Oregon $24.95 (269258) 13.0% alcohol
This is clean, crisp and refreshing with persistent fruit flavour, good balance and lengthy aftertaste. Aromas of ripe apple, piquant spice and pit fruit provide segue to a balanced, spice-infused wash of Bosc pear, apple and racy lemon zest bathing the palate, medium-plus weight with good mouth feel. Give this a go with roast chicken, pan-seared Tuna or grilled prawns. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cloudline Pinot Gris 2014
Willamette Valley $21.95 (159988) 13.9% alcohol
Highly expressive and fragrant aromas burst from the glass—honeysuckle, honeydew melon, nectarine, delicate spice and a whiff of mineral. Dry, medium bodied, clean yet lush with ripe fruit and refreshing Meyer lemon flavours, the wine finds balance in a clean backbone of well-defined acidity. Tangy and juicy through the lasting finish, it’s delicious on its own or may be paired with shellfish or soft cheeses. (Susan Desjardins)

Feature: Australia’s Great Whites

**** drink or cellar
McGuigan ‘Bin 9000’ Semillon 2015
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $14.95 (444554) 11.0% alcohol
The Hunter Valley is arguably Australia’s top wine region for Semillon and McGuigan is one of Australia’s top producers with this Bin 9000 being their most-awarded wine. Fresh, crisp and racy in its early life—now to 2018—you might find it closing down for four or five years only to blossom in later years to aromas and heavenly flavours of honeyed pit fruit. Today, this offers grassy, honeysuckle and lemon notes on the nose while the palate drips with racy tang—lemon curd, Key lime and grapefruit pith. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Skuttlebutt Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2014
Margaret River, Western Australia $18.95 (47621) 13.5% alcohol
This opens with lively aromas of floral, spice and citrus preceding a pungent streak of crisp, refreshing flavour with lemongrass, lime and pineapple to the fore. It’s light on its feet and clean as a whistle throughout with excellent citrus acidity and mouth-watering tang on the finish. Now and for the past few decades, a white like this is what many Australians reached and reach for when enjoying archetypal, ‘prawns on the barbie’. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Yalumba ‘Organic’ Viognier 2015
South Australia $17.95 (288217) 14.5% alcohol
Honeysuckle, orange blossom and yellow peach notes abound on the nose of this delectable, value-packed Viognier. This is seductive, full fruited and smooth as silk gliding over the palate with white nectarine and ripe apple entwined with spice and grilled pineapple joined by crisp clean citrus acidity on the lip-smacking finish. It’s medium weight with gorgeous texture, persistent purity of fruit and a lingering, balanced finish. Pour with oil- and vinegar-tossed mesclun salad under grilled chicken strips. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pikes ‘Traditionale’ Riesling 2015
Clare Valley, South Australia $23.95 (66894) 12.0% alcohol
Cooler-climate Clare Valley is known for their excellent Riesling with Pikes one its top producers. This is one of few wines that aromas and flavours almost perfectly match. Aromas of lemon blossom, lime cordial and flinty/slate/mineral notes release a highly spirited, taut and focused stream of tang-laden ambrosia streaking over the palate infusing the crisp, acidity-drenched finish and aftertaste—lemon curd, Key lime zest and saline minerality with flinty bits galore. Pour with freshly shucked briny oysters, prawn ceviche or sushi. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Jip Jip Rocks Chardonnay 2015
Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (175752) 12.5% alcohol
Proving once again that Jip Jip rocks, this fully textured, nicely balanced 2015 Chardonnay punches well above the price—we need to see more Chardonnay from Padthaway. Orchard and tropical fruit aromas make way for a mid-weight, nicely textured wash of ripe red apple, juicy pear and lemon citrus setting up a crisp refreshing aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared fish or supermarket, rotisserie roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Josef Chromy ‘Pepik’ Chardonnay 2014
Tasmania $22.95 (378240) 13.0% alcohol
This well-made Aussie Chardonnay showcases the cool-climate, island State of Tasmania and one of its top-drawer producers. Piquant spice and orchard fruit open the door for a racy, crisp river of citrus tang and crunchy green apple nicely balanced with notions of lemon pie filling and apple crumble on the back palate and finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and layers on some peach and pear on the clean refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Sherry

**** drink now
Bodegas Hidalgo ‘La Gitana’ Manzanilla

DO Jerez y Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain $16.95 500 mL (745448) 15.0% alcohol

The expressive nose on this fully-textured Sherry is pure 'rancio', a term almost defying description, but think of dried, spicy fruit, over-ripe cantaloupe and burnt sugar—once experienced, never to be forgotten. This is dry with wonderful mouth feel and offers salty, zesty flavours of nuts, figs and dried fruit. The finish is balanced, warm and lengthy. Serve chilled with ceviche or sea food, especially briny shrimp. (Vic Harradine) 

Icewine

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham Cabernet Icewine 2013

VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 200 mL (672402) 9.5% alcohol

Aromas and flavours of spice, strawberry and mixed field berry abound. It’s balanced on a pin with sweet ripe fruit mingling with tangy acidity on the palate and stunning finish. It’s full bodied and fully textured and not the least cloying. Pour on its own as dessert for a decadent, romantic treat for two or alongside strawberries dipped in dark chocolate. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Jean Bourdy Crémant du Jura Brut
AOC Jura $26.95 (439240) 12.0% alcohol
There’s plenty of racy acidity here, it’s tight and taut throughout. Delicate aromas of caramel apple and pear precede a sleek line of lemon citrus, white grapefruit and crisp, green Granny Smith apple dressed in piquant spice skating across the palate with fine bead mousse infusing the crisp, mouth-watering finish. Pour with prawn ceviche or freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Foss Marai ‘Roös’ Brut Spumante Rosé
IGT Veneto $19.95 (435610) 11.5% alcohol
This is delicate and delicious with a crisp, refreshing spray of glorious bubbles and balanced flavours from cork pop to last drop. Red cherry, cranberry and pomegranate robed in excellent acidity and flecks of spice interlace with ruby red grapefruit throughout. Pour with sushi and zucchini tempura. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

***** drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (80234) 9.5% alcohol
Always very good, this vintage reaches new plateaus—delicious, incredible value, difficult to spit. Floral, mineral and citrus aromas on the nose, it releases a surge of sweet and tang flavour with lime cordial, lemon curd, crisp apple and ripe white peach coating the palate. There’s persistent purity of fruit, deft balance and bracing acidity in this lip-smacking gem. The finish is monumentally long and refreshing. Give it a go with lightly spiced Asian dishes or pan-seared breaded, calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Fielding Estate Winery Chardonnay 2014

VQA Beamsville Bench $21.95 (355842) 12.5% alcohol

Aromas of toasty notes, baking spice and orchard fruit herald a refreshing flow of Granny Smith apple and lemon curd interweaving with oaky bits and peach skin on the palate. This is mid weight with good mouth feel and a crisp lip-smacking finish showcasing excellent acidity. It spent nine months on stirred lees in French oak barrel then subjected to meticulous barrel selection before bottling. Good to go now, but will improve with further bottle age, after aeration and poured with roast chicken, veal or pork with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Fielding Estate ‘White Conception’ 2013 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (203737) 12.5% alcohol

This unique blend of 34% Chardonnay/32% Pinot Gris/32% Viognier dishes up alluring aromas of tropical fruit—pineapple and mango—interwoven with honey and citrus. It bathes the palate with a balanced and beautiful stream of honey-drizzled guava and lemon curd with grapefruit pith and peach skin. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a lingering, lip-smacking, tangy finish. This really sings with pan-seared fish or sea food; tried mine with pan-seared salmon alongside par-boiled, pan-grilled broccoli and cauliflower - delicious. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Norman Hardie ‘Unfiltered’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.00 (184432) 12.2% alcohol
From one of Canada’s top wineries, this dishes up a delicious river of flavour with balance, depth and complexity. Baking spice, cigar box and sweet vanilla aromas provide segue for an appealing, balanced stream of baked apple and poached pear interwoven with tang-laden citrus and mineral notes. It’s medium-plus bodied with generous mouth feel and lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Coyote’s Run ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $32.95 (116442) 12.5% alcohol
Barnyard, spice and dark berry fruit aromas make way for a racy and tang-laden stream of red currant, pomegranate and dark cherry making its way over the palate framed with racy acidity and roasted herbs. It finishes dry with wisps of still-evolving tannin and savoury herbs. Aerate/decant three hours and serve with Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2013

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (131540) 12.5% alcohol

Sourced from estate, 12-year-old vines, it was fermented with indigenous yeast in small vats over 15 days. A lighter-styled, consumer-friendly red with charm and elegance, it dishes up aromas of baking spice, red berry fruit and notions of red cherry. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and savoury-laced flavours of ripe red berry fruit and sweet-ish red cherry followed by a balanced finish. It pours well with mains of grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Stratus ‘Wildass Red’ 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 (86363) 13.1% alcohol
This is rich, luscious, great value and absolutely delicious—it’s medium bodied, fully textured and full of ripe fruit. Juicy Bing cherry, briary berry and mocha draped in baking spice and sweet vanilla dazzle the palate replaying on the lengthy finish. Pour with a thick slab of premium beef, seasoned and grilled medium-rare. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (172643) 12.0% alcohol
Spice and red berry fruit aromas introduce this Cabernet Franc/Pinot Noir/Merlot blend of lighter-styled, Niagara Rosé. It cuts across the palate crisp and refreshing with flavours of pomegranate, pie cherry and ripe strawberry. It’s light-medium bodied with texture and a dry, refreshing aftertaste. Pour on its own or pair with grilled or oven-baked salmon or grilled pork cutlets. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Meiomi Chardonnay 2014
Monterey, Sonoma and Santa Barbara Counties $26.95 (410712) 13.6% alcohol
Baked apple aromas with cinnamon and floral notes point the way to a full-textured, full-fruited Chardonnay that’s full of palate-bathing flavour—apple, peach, melon and flecks of minerality. It’s medium-plus weight with good texture and a lengthy, dry finish layering on tangy citrus notes on the aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared fish, scallops or prawns. (Vic Harradine)

• Fruit for the following wine was sourced from cooler-climate vineyards in Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. It was whole-cluster pressed then both tank and barrel fermented and left on lees with frequent stirring. It underwent 3 months of barrel aging and malolactic conversion.

**** drink or cellar
Souverain Chardonnay 2013
North Coast $19.95 (158600) 13.9% alcohol
Enchanting aromas of caramel, baking spice and floral/citrus notes abound. It rolls over the palate with poise and harmony melding ripe orchard fruit with lemony tang with wisps of toasty oak. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it finishes with excellent, crisp acidity on the refreshing aftertaste. Pour chilled, not too cold, with roast chicken or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Lamadrid ‘Single Vineyard Reserva’ Malbec 2012
Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $17.00 (234492) 14.5% alcohol
This very appealing, value-packed, unfined/unfiltered Malbec opens with peppery spice, black juicy fruit and mocha aromas. Medium-plus bodied and creamy smooth, it spills over the palate with rich, luscious waves of ripe, red and black currant garnished with spice and bittersweet chocolate. It finishes lengthy, balanced and lip-smacking good. Pour alongside burgers, steak, or whatever red meat you pull off your Broil King. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pascual Tosa ‘Barrancas Vineyards - Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Mendoza $19.95 (83337) 14.5% alcohol
This will have high appeal for red-wine lovers—it’s fruit forward, nicely textured, well balanced and absolutely scrumptious. Aromas of cedar and dark berry fruit intro a satin-smooth wash of dark bramble berry and juicy black cherry coating the palate balanced by good acidity and a boatload of charm. It’s medium-full bodied with good structure and a lingering finish. A great drop on its own, it shines with grilled ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Rosé Wine

• Ladybird is the term Australians and Brits use for what Americans and Canadians call Ladybugs. It turns out they’re neither bug nor bird, they’re a beetle, with about 6000 different species with the proper name, Coccinellidae. Most are considered beneficial as they eat insects that are pests of plants. The ‘Lady’ part is in reference to the Virgin Mary. Thanks for all this—and much more on this subject found via the upcoming link—is extended to the University of Florida. You might remember Niagara’s 2001 unfortunate encounter with pyrazine when there were so many ladybugs/ladybirds on harvested grapes they were included in the fermentation process resulting in some wines being tainted—the taint only became apparent a few months later—and removed from shelves.

**** drink now
Zonte’s Footstep ‘Scarlet Ladybird’ Rosé 2015
Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia $15.95 (408476) 13.5% alcohol
This attacks the nose and palate with high-spirited spice and red berry fruit; it’s not your garden-variety Rosé. This 65% Grenache/35% Cabernet Sauvignon blend offers aromas of strawberry and sharp, peppery spice. Red grapefruit, piquant spice and rhubarb provide a tart, tangy underpinning for this dry, medium weight Rosé while there’s enough strawberry sweetness for balance. The finish is crackling crisp and lip-smacking with tiny flecks of tannin. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Rosé Wine

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Villa Maria ‘Private Bin’ Rosé 2015
Hawkes Bay, North Island $17.95 (234377) 12.5% alcohol
This is well paced, well priced, well balanced and well… delicious. Aromas of spice and red berry fruit herald great depth of flavour with a harmonious flow of red and black field berry fruit and piquant spice on the palate. There’s a dry, crisp mouth-watering finish. It’s visually and gastronomically appealing poured with pan-seared, freshwater trout. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink now
Vincent Mothe Chablis 2014
AOC Chablis $26.95 (390468) 12.5% alcohol
Mineral/flinty notes mingle with orchard fruit aromas on the nose. It dishes up a nicely balanced stream of green apple, ripe pear and tangy lemon zest on the palate. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and persistent purity of fruit throughout. The finish is tang laden with hints of grapefruit pith and good minerality on the crisp, refreshing finish. Pour with pan-seared fish, freshly shucked oysters or ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Château de Tréviac 2014
AOP Corbières $17.95 (438747) 13.5% alcohol
This is an interesting blend of hand-picked 45% Grenache blanc/45% Roussanne/10% Muscat blanc à petit grains from 30-year-year-old vines. Citrus and floral aromas morph into ripe peach and pear flavours on the palate joined by tangy lemon citrus. There’s good racy tension throughout with pungent peach skin on the crisp, mouth-watering finish. Pour with fish or all manner of seafood. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** cellar
Château des Demoiselles 2011
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux-Castillon $17.95 (348755) 13.0% alcohol
Earthy notes, espresso roast and dark cherry aromas waft from this Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon red blend. There’s oodles of flavour with dark cherry and bramble berry cloaked in a firm tannin grip on the oaky palate and grainy, dry finish. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with many years to go. You’ll be rewarded waiting until 2018 to 2022 to pop corks serving with grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Château les Tourelles 2011
AOC Bordeaux $16.95 (426247) 13.0% alcohol
Fresh lively aromas of cherry and grapey notes dominate the nose of this uncomplicated, tangy red. It streaks across the palate with red currant and pie cherry adorned with roasted herbs. There’s racy red fruit on the dry, mouth-watering finish making it a great candidate to pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Rombeau ‘Cuvée Elise – Vieilles Vignes’ 2011
AOP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $22.95 (439695) 14.5% alcohol
A spirited nose of red cherry/berry fruit and sharp spice aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with a medium-plus bodied, nicely textured river of dark cherry, briary berry and black plum compote bathing the palate accompanied by spice and earthy notes. It finishes nicely balanced with notions of minerality. Good to go now with osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château de Gaudou ‘Cuvée Boisée Renaissance’ Cahors 2012
AOC Cahors $25.95 (364786) 14.0% alcohol
Graphite, dark cherry/berry fruit and baking spice aromas open the door for a rich, luscious attack of palate-coating flavour—juicy Bing cherry and black berry interwoven with toasty oak, bittersweet chocolate and earthy notes. It’s firmly structured, full-bodied and fully textured with still-evolving tannins playing a perceptible role. Aerate/decant for three hours pouring with well-seasoned grilled red meat or squirrel away until 2018. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

**** drink now
L’Ostal Cazes Rosé 2015
IGP Pays d’Oc $14.95 (450809) 13.0% alcohol
One of the lighter-hued Rosés, it dishes up quite a value with its crowd-pleasing, nicely balanced, crisp, refreshing mouthful of flavour—you can’t always tell a wine by its colour. Herbs, spice and strawberry on the nose, it surges over the palate with a delicious river of red raspberry, pie cherry and red grapefruit nicely balanced with red plum compote. This is medium bodied with good mouth feel and a crisp, clean aftertaste. Quite lovely on its own it also pours well with pan-seared fish or lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• The following is one of the traditionally more-popular Rosés each vintage and this doesn’t disappoint. It’s sourced from quite an array of hand-harvested, white and red, organically grown fruit—38% Grenache, 32% Cinsault, 17% Syrah, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Mourvèdre, 3% Sémillon, 2% Rolle, 2% Ugni-blanc and 1% Kitchensink… okay, just kidding about the sink. Both Rolle and Sémillon are white grapes. They gently crush all fruit without de-stemming then ferment in stainless steel tank followed by full malolactic conversion. They also encorporate some biodynamic practices in their viticulture and viniculture management.
**** drink now
Château la Tour de l’Évêque Rosé 2015
AOC Côtes de Provence $19.95 (319392) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic incense, floral notes and cherry/berry fruit aromas set the table for a fruit bowl of flavour—red currant, ripe watermelon and bright red cherry mingle with piquant spice and red grapefruit. It’s medium weight and beautifully textured with notions of grapefruit pith on the crisp, racy finish. Pour with prawn ceviche, a mixed deli platter or charcuterie. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Gassier ‘Sables d’Azur’ Rosé 2015
AOP Côtes de Provence $15.95 (33621) 13.0% alcohol
This is what you hope for in a Rosé—it’s fresh and lively with racy red fruit flavour ameliorated with a bit of ripe, sweet fruit on the palate finishing with good tang on a dry, mouth-watering finish, and all this at a reasonable price. Aromas of red cherry/berry fruit lead to a medium-bodied, balanced and textured stream of strawberry and pie cherry flavour with bits of spice. It finishes dry, crisp and lip-smacking good. Pour with lighter-styled appetizers or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Saint Aix Rosé 2015
AOP Côteaux d’Aix en Provence $22.95 (451906) 13.0% alcohol
This should garner its fair share of admirers; it’s nicely balanced with prime red fruit flavours and a clean finish. Spirited aromas of spice and freshly sliced strawberry intro a spice-infused wash of red raspberry, rhubarb and strawberry interweaving with faint wisps of tannin. Good to go on its own, it also pairs and pours well with pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Domaine Maby ‘La Forcadière’ Tavel Rosé 2015
AOC Tavel $18.95 (701318) 14.0% alcohol
One of the more-deeply hued Rosés, this Grenache/Syrah/Cinsault red blend offers a delicate nose of spice and strawberry. It comes up bold on the palate with rich flavours of red raspberry, ruby red grapefruit and peach skin infused with excellent acidity and tang. Its medium bodied with a dry, clean finish. Pour alongside a salty charcuterie platter with accoutrements. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Gabriel Meffre ‘Saint-Ferréol’ Tavel Rosé 2015
AOP Tavel $19.95 (450866) 13.0% alcohol
This is good value, dense and complex, and a standout Rosé in this release. Aromas of floral notes, piquant spice and red cherry unfurl a surge of pie cherry, cranberry and red currant, crisp and refreshing on palate and aftertaste. It’s mid weight with good texture and lingering, dry, clean finish. Pour with a deli platter of soft white and blue-veined cheese, deli meats, spicy black olives and baguette. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Layer Cake Primitivo 2012
IGT Puglia $24.95 (384065) 13.5% alcohol
This is a bit pricey for Primitivo, but the flavour concentration, balance and structure make it a compelling offer. Aromas of tobacco, mineral notes and spice unfurl this mid-weight, nicely textured red. It bathes the palate with a crowd-friendly rush of black and pie cherry joined by notions of red licorice and oodles of racy tang and mixed spice. It finishes lengthy, dry and delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Rosé Wine

***1/2 drink now
Duca Catemario ‘Collezione Privata’ Pinot Grigio Rosé 2015
IGT dell Venezie $14.95 (451146) 12.5% alcohol
This is definitely a lighter-styled offering—it’ll appeal to many who favour this style—with delicate aromas of spice box, strawberry and lilac. A narrow flow of watermelon, piquant spice and cherry glide over the palate infusing the dry, medium-length finish. Sip on its own as an aperitif. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** cellar
Pata Negra ‘Reserva’ 2010
DOCa Rioja $17.00 (443804) 14.0% alcohol
The involved nose of spice, cedar and dark berry fruit heralds a fruit basket of flavour with an intense, tangy river of pomegranate, black currant and pie cherry decorated with mineral notes and roasted herbs. These replay on the finish along with perceptible, still-evolving tannin. This is medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and plenty ahead of it. Best to pop corks 2018 and on. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Viña Real Rosado 2015
DOCa Rioja $15.95 (451120) 12.5% alcohol
Citrus and floral aromas precede a racy, dry river of sour cherry, lemon zest and red grapefruit. It’s medium weight with mid-length aftertaste that’s dry crisp and refreshing decorated with mixed spice and a bit of peach skin bite. Pour with lighter-styled appetizers or crumbled chèvre over olive-oiled arugula. (Vic Harradine)

New in Okanagan Valley Wineries

• You can order the following three wines to be shipped to your home or office in most provinces, including Ontario, via this link - Culmina Family Estate Winery.

• The basket-pressed fruit for the following 100% Chardonnay was sourced from hi-altitude, hi-density-planted vines on Margaret’s Bench vineyard. It was 66% barrel fermented and aged nine months in French oak, 16% one year old with the balance left in stainless steel tank. No surprise the Dilemma has a gorgeous mouth feel; 60% of the wine underwent malolactic conversion. A variety of Chardonnay clones and rootstock were used to micro-match a multitude of various soil compositions and different aspects in the vineyard. We had the pleasure and honour to taste the following Culmina wines recently with owner Don Triggs in Ottawa at the fabulous Bank Street, Food and Bar restaurant, Fauna. Wines and restaurant were absolutely top notch.

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Culmina ‘Dilemma’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $31.00 14.0% alcohol
Aromas showcase mineral notes, melon, light toast and lemon citrus. It showers over the palate medium bodied with excellent mouth feel, tangy and pure. A racy gusher of lemon curd and grilled pineapple interweave with baking spice and wisps of toasty oak. The finish and aftertaste layer on white grapefruit, flinty notes and peach skin. Pour with pan-seared fish or freshly shucked, briny oysters. (Vic Harradine)
 
****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Culmina Merlot 2013
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $31.00 14.0% alcohol
Aged sixteen months in French oak, 50% new, the wine is fragrant with black cherry, berry and red plum, perfumed spice, subtle oak and mineral nuances. Dry, medium-full bodied, the firm ripe tannins manifest the power of south-Okanagan Merlot, the fresh acidity and underlying minerality adding zest to the juicy, dark, briary fruit. The oak aging delivers an attractive note of coffee bean on the long, savoury finish. At Culmina’s suggestion, serve with wild mushroom tagliatelle. (Susan Desjardins)
 
****1/2 cellar Oh Canada!
Culmina Golden Mile Bench, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
VQA Okanagan Valley $34.00 14.0% alcohol
This is complex, firmly structured with good, purity of ripe fruit, excellent acidity and a world of promise. Heady aromas of savoury herbs, black licorice and dark black cherry abound. A fully fruited, creamy-textured and full-bodied surge of black currant, baking spice and cassis drench the palate infused with grippy tannin. It finishes with wisps of mocha, grilled herbs and everything in place—only requiring time to mature gracefully. Pop corks 2019 to 2025; expect this Okanagan Cab to handsomely reward your patience. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wines—plus those in many previous newsletters—by the case (some in cases of six) for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via website, VinoLuna, by Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.

White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Familia Conesa ‘La Doncella de las vinas’ 2015
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain $14.30 12.5% alcohol
This Chardonnay is certified organic and vegan. It opens with a gorgeous nose of stone fruit, pineapple, mango and honeysuckle notes. A persistent flow of ripe peach and pear merge with tangy citrus on the palate and endure through the long mouth-watering finish. Serve this easy-drinking white with barbecued chicken and fresh mango chutney. (Lisa Isabelle)

• Fruit for the following white wine from family-owned Domaine Auquier was sourced from 25-year-old vines. Two brothers—Claude and Jean-Luc Auqiuer—have been perfecting their wines over the past three decades. It saw no oak; it was aged on its lees leading to the gorgeous texture experienced in the wine below.

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Domaine Auquier Luberon 2015
AOP Luberon, France $12.20 13.5% alcohol
This 80% Grenache Blanc, 20% Ugni Blanc blend offers highly scented aromas of honeysuckle and pit fruit. A well-textured and deftly balanced flow of ripe apple and peach bathes the palate with wisps of citrus and peach skin. It finishes crisp, clean and refreshing. This could be your white ‘House Wine’—it’s terrific value and extremely versatile; sip on its own, pour as a welcome wine or aperitif, or pair with white meats, grilled chicken and Caesar salad or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Familia Conesa ‘El Beso de las Uvas’ 2014
DO Pago Guijoso, Spain $22.05 14.0 % alcohol
The Pago designation of origin is the most difficult to obtain in Spain and refers to a single-estate wine created and bottled in that domain. This Chardonnay—aged 5 months in French oak barrel—exhibits aromas of caramel apple, zesty citrus and ripe peach. It’s dry and well balanced with a round, supple texture and flavours of Bosc pear, crisp green apple and a kiss (un beso) of lemon which lingers though the long, bright finish. (Lisa Isabelle)

**** drink now
Fratelli Ponte ‘Fiore di Loto’ Moscato d’Asti 2015
DOCG Moscato d’Asti, Italy $18.50 5.5% alcohol
This low-alcohol spritzy gem from Piedmont displays fresh, pure aromas of nectarine, pineapple and mango accented with orchard blossoms. The sweetness is balanced with lively acidity and offers flavours of ripe orchard fruit and ginger on the delicately effervescent palate. This is summer in a glass. Serve as a refreshing aperitif on a sunny patio. (Lisa Isabelle)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Domaine Antugnac ‘Les Grands Penchants’ 2014
IGT Haute Vallée de L’Aude, France $16.90 13.0% alcohol
This stunning gem is sourced from some of the oldest Chardonnay vines in the Languedoc with high-diurnal temperature variation and well-drained subsoil of clay and limestone. Aromas of tropical fruit, ripe pear and mixed spice precede an explosion of ripe pear, apple and yellow peach with a good citrus underpinning. It’s medium weight with generous mouth feel and balanced lingering finish with wisps of peach skin on the aftertaste. Don’t pass this by; both price and wine are compelling. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Alba Vega 2015
DO Rias Baixas, Spain $18.15 12.5% alcohol
Crafted from 100% Albariño grapes from northwestern Spain, this offers concentrated aromas of pink grapefruit, lemon zest and a floral bouquet. It’s medium-full bodied with a textured mouthful of juicy, ripe peach and apricot along with a squeeze of lemon and mineral notes persisting through a long, satiny-smooth finish. Serve this versatile white with pan-seared fish or grilled seafood. (Lisa Isabelle)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Vegamar ‘Selección’ Merseguera 2015
DO Valencia, Spain $14.30 12.5% alcohol
Merseguera, a fragrant native grape of Valencia, is rarely seen as single varietal. Lively and lifted aromas of orange blossom, lime, tropical fruit and honeycomb dominate the nose leading to red apple, ripe pineapple and a trace of peach skin on the palate. It’s dry, medium bodied with good texture and fresh, fruity finish. Pair with grilled garlic shrimp. (Lisa Isabelle)

**** drink now
Château d’Antugnac ‘Terres Amoureuses’ Limoux Blanc 2014 

AOC Limoux, France $21.70 13.5% alcohol
Hand-harvested Chardonnay from 35-year-old vines was placed in stainless steel vat where free run juice was transferred to oak barrel, 10% new, where fermentation, malolactic conversion and short aging took place along with lees stirring. Aromas of citrus toast and baking spice herald a medium-weight, tangy river of lemon curd, Granny Smith apple and peach skin dancing on the palate, infusing the crisp, mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with fish and seafood or grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine was sourced from 100% Viura grapes that remained on their skins for three months after fermentation while maturing in new American and French oak barrel as well as French acacia casks. Acacia trees grow in France amongst the oak trees used for oak wine barrels, as well as other European countries. It’s often used to provide structure and texture without overt oak aromas and flavours. It has less tannin and is said to preserve freshness, varietal character and floral notes.

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta ‘Fermentado Barrica’ Viura 2015
DOCa Rioja, Spain $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Heady honeysuckle and ripe orchard fruit aromas bolt from the glass of this heavenly textured Viura. There’s considerable lemon and grapefruit pithiness on the palate as a result of the extended skin contact along with pear, apple, spice and wisps of oak. This is medium weight with a crisp refreshing finish and aftertaste. It pours perfectly with lemon chicken. Great now, even better in 6 months. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Fratelli Ponte Roero 2015
DOCG Arneis, Italy $16.95 13.5% alcohol
This lacey, balanced-on-a-pin, hand-harvested, 100% Roero opens with lifted aromas of lemon blossom, exotic incense and apricot. A complex, nicely textured stream of beautifully balanced nectar bathes the palate with lime cordial, white peach and lemon curd to the fore. It finishes with persistent purity of fruit, lip-smacking tang and a boatload of charm and elegance. Pour on its own, it’s delicious, or alongside lighter-styled white meat or sea food appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Bodegas Ugalde ‘Bianai’ Blanco Rioja 2015
DOCa Rioja, Spain $12.00 12.5% alcohol
Sourced from high-density planted, 100% Viura grapes, this lighter-styled Spanish white offers aromas of ripe pear and apple with citrus notes. It glides over the palate light-medium bodied with delicate texture and flavours of Granny Smith apple, peach and lemon zest. It finishes with replays along with peach skin and lemon-lime tang. Pour with prawn ceviche, sushi or pan-seared calamari. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine is sourced from 100% Viura, a.k.a. Macabeo, an indigenous Spanish grape. It’s used as a single-varietal in making fresh, juicy wine meant for early consumption and less frequently as a Reserva or barrel fermented where it can age. It’s also one of the major grapes—along with Xarello and Parellado—used in making Cava—Spain’s most famous sparkling wine.

***1/2 drink now
Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta Blanco Rioja 2015
DOCa Rioja, Spain $12.45 13.0% alcohol
Floral notes and orchard fruit aromas precede an uncomplicated tangy wash of lemon curd, pineapple and oodles of racy tang streaking over the palate infusing the crisp, refreshing, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This really struts its stuff poured alongside freshly shucked oysters with a dash of hot sauce and dribble of fresh lemon juice. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fratelli Ponte ‘Vini’ 2013
DOCG Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Italy $21.30 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of dried red cherry and sunned red currant are united with savoury herbs, spice and a whiff of smoke. Aged 18 months in a combination of stainless steel, large oak casks and oak barrel, this well-balanced, dry red finishes with a mouth-watering tang and flavours of red cherry, pomegranate and cloves. This is a great pairing with tomato-based pasta dishes or pizza. (Lisa Isabelle)

**** drink now
Fratelli Ponte Barbera d’Asti 2015
DOCG Barbera d’Asti, Italy $15.95 14.0% alcohol
Piquant spice, earthy notes and rose petal aromas open the door for a delicious, balanced stream of red and black currant flowing across the palate decorated with spice and wisps of cassis. This is quite smooth throughout with harmonious ripe fruit and racy tang and a mid-length, dry aftertaste. Hand-harvested, 100% Barbera fruit was fermented then aged 6 months in stainless steel tank then a further 6 months in bottle before release, not a stick of oak. This is good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Valentini Monteregio Rosso 2014
DOC Monteregio di Massa Marittima, Italy $14.65 13.5% alcohol
This Tuscan appellation was granted DOC status in 1994. The family-owned estate vineyard faces southwest near the Monteregio Castle. Primarily Sangiovese blended with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s laden with aromas of red fruit, baking spice and a touch of vanilla. It’s dry and full-bodied with approachable fine-grained tannin displaying flavours of ripe cherry, blackberry jam and sweet baking spice on a long, juicy finish. There’s great value in this food-friendly red. (Lisa Isabelle)

**** drink or cellar
Valentini ‘Vivoli’ 2013
DOC Monteregio di Massa Marittima, Italy $21.30 14.0% alcohol
A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot produced this elegant wine with intense red fruit aromas accented with black pepper and cedar, The palate is awash with ripe cherry and red plum complemented by subtle spice and vanilla notes. Dry and medium-full bodied with well-integrated tannin, it finishes long and warm. This’ll pair nicely with grilled spring lamb. (Lisa Isabelle)

**** drink now
Domaine Antugnac ‘Coté Pierre Lys’ Pinot Noir 2014
IGP Haute Vallée de L’Aude, France $21.70 13.0% alcohol
Charred toast, grilled herbs and savoury notes abound on the nose of this translucent-ruby, light-on-its-feet, Pinot Noir. Candied red berry notes mingle with passion fruit and cherry cordial on the palate while the mid-length finish offers subtle replays garnished with minerality, wisps of soft tannin and sprigs of herbs. This was aged approximately 12 months in oak barrel after free-run juice was cold soaked and punched down twice daily leading to a two-week fermentation. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Château d’Antugnac ‘Aux Bons Hommes – Haute Vallée’ Limoux 2012 
AOC Limoux, France $16.90 14.0% alcohol
This delightful red blend—70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Syrah—opens with aromas of cedar and field berry fruit. A complex, structured line of baking spice and red and black berry fruit coat the palate robed in good tang and soft, fine-grained tannin. This all persists through the lingering aftertaste, balanced, beautiful and lip-smacking good. Aerate/decant an hour or so before pouring with burgers, steak or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta Crianza Rioja 2011
DOCa Rioja, Spain $19.95 13.5% alcohol
This value-packed, Tempranillo/Graciano/Mazuelo red blend is from a great vintage. It was matured 18 months in new and seasoned American oak casks. Fragrant aromas of sandalwood, leather and piquant spice interlace with spice box on the nose of this medium-weight, über-smooth gem. It bathes the palate with black and red currant mingling with toasty notes, grilled herbs and fine-grained, ripe tannin. This is balanced with persistent purity of fruit and a lengthy, fruit-laced, dry finish. (Vic Harradine)

• This 6th generation, family-owned Domaine is now managed by Béatrice Bécamel who earned her stripes through her DNA, hands-on experience and a viticulture/vinification certificate. The original property, Château Bolchet, was purchased by her great-grandfather in 1900. She now manages 40 hectares of approximately 40-year-old vines with soils of primarily terraced, rounded pebbles left by ancient rivers from which the following red blend—55 % Syrah, 40% Grenache, 5% Cinsault—was sourced.

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Domaine du Bolchet Costières de Nîmes 2015
AOP Costières de Nîmes, France $12.95
This delightful red blend opens with delicate aromas of floral, spice and red berry fruit. It washes over the palate, mid-weight and nicely textured with excellent tang expressed in red currant and pomegranate flavour dressed in mixed spice and an earthy note. It’s nicely balanced with lengthy, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Bodegas Ugalde ‘Bianai’ Crianza 2013
DOCa Rioja, Spain $15.20 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, 5% Mazuelo—spent 12 months maturing in American oak barrel and a further 6 months in bottle before release. It opens with alluring aromas of floral and spiced notes wrapped around red cherry/berry fruit. A ripe, fruited stream of currant and cherry robed in sweet and tang bathes the palate—creamy smooth and deftly balanced replaying on the aftertaste. Good value here; pour with roast chicken or grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Bodegas Familia Contesa ‘La Doncella’ 2014
Vino de la Tierra, Spain $14.30 13.5% alcohol
Predominantly Tempranillo with a 20% splash of Syrah, this organic red dishes up a dazzling nose of peppery spice, floral notes and ripe, dark berry fruit. A firm, structured flow of dark cherry and racy red currant streak over the palate garnished with roasted herbs and underpinned by still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant three hours and serve with grilled, seasoned red meat or pop corks 2018. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Bodegas Vegamar ‘Selección’ Garnacha 2015
DOP Valencia, Spain $14.30 13.0% alcohol
This deftly balanced, fresh and juicy red showcases ripe fruit and excellent acidity throughout. Aromas of exotic spice, red licorice and berry fruit precede a lively balanced wash of red currant and briary berry interwoven with notions of milk chocolate and kirsch liqueur. It’s a lovely expression of Grenache pleasing palate and purse. Pour with prawn and chorizo paella, red pizza or pork fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Dezzani ‘La Guardia’ Rosso 2013
DOC Monferrato, Italy $15.40 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of smoke, fig and raisin roll easily from this medium-bodied, very nicely textured, red blend—86% Dolcetto, 11% Barbera, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon—aged in seasoned, large oak casks for 12 months. There’s great purity of fruit, balance and structure at an extremely attractive price. It flows over the palate with a gusher of black currant and dark cherry dressed with spice box and red berry tang. The aftertaste is lengthy and lip-smacking good. Pair with steak, burgers, gourmet sausage or meat-laden, red pizza. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Valentini ‘atunis’ Merlot 2012
IGT Toscana, Italy $29.95 14.5% alcohol
This is balanced with good structure, balance and depth—very pretty, indeed. Espresso roast, grilled herbs and black plum aromas abound on the nose of this mid-plus weight, creamy-smooth gem. Juicy bramble berry and spice-infused dark Bing cherry coat the palate with notions of dark chocolate and sweet vanilla. The finish is long, luscious and memorable with replays and tangy bite on the aftertaste. The hand-harvested, 100% Merlot was fermented in stainless steel then aged 18 months in small oak barrel. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Susan, Lisa