****1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery Icewine Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $50.00 200 mL
Expressive and pristine, this delivers a finely tuned mouthful of sweet, ripe and unctuous fruit flavours that glide along and are deftly balanced by a laser-like spine of acidity. Aromas of ripe yellow peach, citrus zest and hints of ginger burst from the glass. The palate is treated to a well sculpted gusher of sweet ripe tree fruit flavours—nectarine and apple, followed by tropical fruit with mango and ripe pineapple to the fore. It’s another triumph for Pillitteri to be enjoyed as, not with, dessert. Order direct from Pillitteri. (VH)

***** drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery Icewine ‘Sticky Beak’ 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $50.00 200 mL
Alluring and seductive aromas—cherry clafoutis, ganache and spice—segue complex, rich and succulent flavours of blood orange, ripe raspberry and sweet black plum. This aphrodisiac-like red blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Cabernet Franc, 24% Shiraz, 4% Sangiovese captures the spirit as well as the palate. It’s perfectly balanced, generously textured and delivers a lingering warm finish that layers on dark briary berry flavour. Romantically released for Valentine’s Day, order direct from Pillitteri. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Seifried Riesling 2007
Marlborough, New Zealand $22.95
This wine opens with a superbly concentrated nose of lime, lime blossom and minerality. The mineral aromas border on the petrol side, a character more often seen in aged Rieslings. It’s just ever so slightly off-dry with peach flavours appearing on the palate. A medium body combines with lively acidity to create great balance, and the lime and peach flavours linger long into the finish. Excellent effort. Order wines for daily home or office delivery from Groupe Soliel Wine. (MT)

**** drink now
Bodegas Martinez Serantes ‘Alba Rosa’ Albariño 2007
DO Rias Baixas, Spain $22.95
A very intriguing nose features tropical (banana) fruits with buttery nuances, sweet baking spices and fresh grass. There’s no oak treatment, however, and the palate is very refreshing and medium in body, boasting excellent balance. Citrus flavours make an appearance on the lengthy finish. The wine of choice in Spain for most manner of shellfish; my first pick would be soft shell crab. Order wines for daily home or office delivery from Groupe Soliel Wine. (MT)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Clos de Sixte’ Lirac 2005
AOC Lirac, France $26.50
A blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre, this wine over-delivers on aromatics. Copious red and dark fruits combine with menthol, white pepper, smokiness and tobacco complexity. The tannins are deceivingly firm as they’re very ripe, giving a velvety mouth feel to this full-bodied wine. The finish is long, dark and brooding although there’s plenty of fruit to tame the tannins. I’d anticipate it really hitting its stride in about three more years. Delicious. Order wines for daily home or office delivery from Groupe Soliel Wine. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Berton Reserve Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, Australia $18.95
For a Barossa Shiraz, this wine has a lot of finesse. It’s not a fruit bomb, showcasing pepper and smoke on the nose along with black plum and milk chocolate aromas. Structure is provided by very fine, persistent tannins and soft acidity. The 14.5% alcohol doesn’t appear to overwhelm and the result is good balance and length. It’ll be an obviously good choice for pepper steak or rack of lamb, but it’s also reserved enough to suit strong, firm cheeses. Order wines for daily home or office delivery from Groupe Soliel Wine. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Tenuta Rocca ‘Vigna Roca Nerra’ Barbera d’Alba 2004
DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $36.50
A lot of wines from this region of Italy are quite light, and designed as simple quaffers. That is not the case at all with this wine, as there’s a lot going on. Aromas include black cherry with licorice, leafy and herbal notes, even a subtle floral edge. Refreshing acidity and very soft tannins combine with a full body to provide good balance, and the finish is long and zesty. Gourmet thin-crust pizza, pasta with truffles, or good old-fashioned hard cheese would all suit. Order wines for daily home or office delivery from Groupe Soliel Wine. (MT)