****1/2 drink or cellar
Bonny Doon Vineyard 'Le Cigare Volant' 2004
California $38.45
There are cassis, exotic spice and dark berry aromas galore in this Châteauneuf-du-Pape-like red blend—50% Grenache, 24% Mourvèdre, 22% Syrah, 3% Carignane, 1% Cinsault. Randall Grahm couldn’t resist naming this Le Cigare Volant (flying cigar) as it’s the French term for flying saucer. In 1954, winemakers in that region had a by-law passed preventing flying saucers from flying over or landing in vineyards, on penalty of being impounded. This delivers an impressive stream of concentrated fruit flavours, especially on the mid-palate, with black raspberry, sweet black cherry and ripe German prune plum predominant. There are also gamey notes and hints of tobacco leaf and savoury herbs. It’s medium-bodied and fully textured displaying ripe supple tannin and finishes with lovely squirt of refreshing zest and tang. The monumental finish—30 to 40 seconds—is worth the price of admission. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Bonny Doon Vineyard ‘Bien Nacido’ Syrah 2005
Santa Maria Valley, California $48.80
The most Rhône-like of the wines offered, this hails from a cool-ish California climate and has the spice box, decisive minerality and smoked deli meat aromas to show for it. This 100% Syrah is dark and brooding in the glass springing into action with a gargantuan and complex wave of teeth-staining flavours—dark berry fruit, black juicy cherry and plum compote. Full bodied and nicely textured, you’ll find grainy tannin, terrific balance and a lengthy finish. Drink 2012 to 2020+. Order by the case for home or office delivery via Private Order from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Bonny Doon ‘Le Pousseur’ Syrah 2005
Central Coast, California $23.65
Black pepper, smoked bacon and tarry black licorice aromas abound on this silky-smooth round and ready-to-drink offering. There’s a 4% touch of Grenache in this, adding to the complexity. The flavours are quite focused and laser-like, look for red currant, red cherry and racy cranberry throughout. It’s restrained at the moment, needing another two year’s bottle age and a three-hour aeration / decant upon opening. Pair this with coq au vin. Order by the case for home or office delivery via Private Order from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Bonny Doon ‘Beeswax Vineyard - Le Vol des Anges’ 2007
Arroyo Seco, California $36.10 (375 mL)
Unctuous, rich, honeyed and concentrated, this is a Late Harvest wine on steroids. You’ll find a cornucopia of flavours including orange marmalade, sweet honeyed tropical fruit, caramel, sweet peach and spiced nectarine. It’s full textured and delivers a lengthy well-balanced finish. Pair this with crème brûlée or crème caramel—delicious. Order by the case for home or office delivery via Private Order from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)